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Fieldwork: Kalmykia 2012

The Republic of Kalmykia in Russia sits at the southeastern corner of Europe. Though European in geography, Kalmykia—officially Buddhist and home to the westernmost group of Mongolic peoples—is an anomaly for that continent. In many ways, it is a miracle that the Kalmyk exist in any way as they suffered terribly at the hands of Stalin. Branding them collaborators with the Germans, one night in December, 1943, Stalin had the entire Kalmyk ethnic group (including all active-duty military) rounded up at gun-point, loaded up on cattle cars on trains, with families split apart and sent to extremely harsh conditions to remote and inhospitable parts of Siberia and Kazakhstan. Survivors were allowed to return only 15 years later to Kalmykia, to find their lands occupied by Russian and Ukrainian farmers.

The Enduring Voices team, including Dr. Greg Anderson, Dr. David Harrison, Chris Rainier, and Jeremy Fahringer, visited Kalmykia in May 2012. Our goals included: observing and reporting on language revitalization, meeting and interviewing Kalmyk culture experts, recording Kalmyk stories and songs, and recruiting participants for the 2013 Smithsonian Folklife Festival. Prior to our fieldwork, David Harrison met with the Kalmyk diaspora community in Howell, NJ, and observed their success in maintaining their Buddhist religious practice, language, and culture.

Altyn Basanov, age 91, a Kalmyk emigrant to France returning to visit his homeland, with Dmitriy Sergejevich Sharayev (left) and an unidentified musician near Elista, Kalmykia. Photo by Chris Rainier.

Viktor Batyrovich Okchayev and Dmitriy Sergejevich Sharayev near Elista, Kalmykia. Photo by Chris Rainier.

Nyamin Songajieyavich Manjieyev and Nina Kochayevna Manjieyeva perform a traditional song at their home in Komsomolsky, Kalmykia. Photo by Jeremy Fahringer.

Itkl, a collective of Kalmyk youth for the propagandizing of Kalmyk culture and language. Photo by Chris Rainier.

A dancer advertises at the tea festival in Elista. Photo by Chris Rainier.

Umamdzhi Goryayevich Goniyev, born 1963, trains horses outside of Yashkul', Kalmykia. Photo by Chris Rainier.

Badma Khalgayevich Tsebikov and Svetlana Tsabdidovich Dzhamchinova, near Yashkul', Kalmykia. Photo by Chris Rainier.

The Enduring Voices team (from left: Jeremy Fahringer, Gregory Anderson, K. David Harrison) interviews Badma Khalgayevich Tsebikov about Kalmyk horse customs in Yashkul', Kalmykia. Photo by Oliver Anderson.

A Kalmyk fox hat and topshur (dombura). Photo by Oliver Anderson.

Shard Nigryan Nasanka, an expert wood carver and instrument maker, in Yashkul’, Kalmykia. Photo by Chris Rainier.

Dorzhi Nandushov, a master horseman, in Ketchenery, Kalmykia. Photo by Chris Rainier.

David Harrison consults with Buxin Bembin Gaavan Baatr about Kalmyk musical terms, near Elista, Kalmykia. Photo by Jeremy Fahringer.

Anja-Gelung at the 'Golden Abode of Buddha Shakyamuni' temple in Elista, Kalmykia. Photo by Chris Rainier.

Gary Lidzeyev, photographer, holds his favorite image of the Dalai Lama. Lidzeyev travels around the world photographing Buddhist traditions. Elista, Kalmykia. Photo by Chris Rainier.

Altyn Basanov, age 91, a Kalmyk emigrant to France returning to visit his homeland, with Dmitriy Sergejevich Sharayev (left) and an unidentified musician near Elista, Kalmykia. Photo by Chris Rainier.

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