September 2000

Learning to Pack Lightly

By Kirsten Schwind '96

Today, I'm returning to Guatemala after six months at home in California. I heft my backpack around the metal bar that divides Guatemala from Mexico, shove my passport at an amused immigration official, and squeeze onto a semiretired Blue Bird school bus along with about 70 indigenous farmers and local merchants sitting 6 across. I've made the 14-hour trek from San Cristobal de las Casas, Chiapas, to Guatemala City many times, and it still feels awkward: my backpack, full of stuff that seemed important when I packed that morning, won't fit in the overhead luggage rack along with the modest bundles of the other passengers.

Once again, I lose out in the subtle competition for shoulder space against the seat back and end up leaning forward for two hours with an elderly man's sleepy head knocking at my shoulder blades over the bumps. But the good thing is that I'm next to a window, with a view of some of the most breathtaking scenery in Central America: a soaring black canyon and dramatically tilted plateaus, where improbable cornfields sprout from sheaths of rock. Then I realize my arm is stuck to a pink blob of recently chewed gum squashed on the window pane. My life here isn't always as romantic as I remember it.

Kirsten Schwind samples a free school lunch--eggs and a hot cornmeal drink-- from a program started in some Guatemalan schools as a result of the 1996 peace accords.

Two years in Guatemala and Chiapas have injected me into an experience so incongruous with my comfortable Silicon Valley childhood; Swarthmore academia; and former Washington, D.C., government contract job that I'm still trying to figure out how these worlds can coexist on the same planet.

In my second week of working for Witness for Peace, a social justice organization that educates U.S. activists about the effects of our foreign policy abroad (and stores its archives in the Peace Collection of McCabe Library), I visited survivors of one of Guatemala's 626 government-sponsored massacres of civilians during the 36-year counterinsurgency war that ended in 1996.

I thought the first time hearing massacre testimony must be the hardest, but it wasn't. I got to know the survivors as people I could joke with later that evening over a meal of beans and tortillas around their kitchen fire and came to think of them as no more deserving of tragedy in their lives than I. In Acteal, Chiapas, a Tzotzil Maya village that was the site of Mexico's worst recent massacre in 1997, I was pulled into a throng of dancers bouncing to a buoyant cumbia pumped out by the same local band that had played at a mass for the 45 victims a few weeks earlier. "Long live human rights!" they sang. These expressions of defiant joy and fun made their losses most human to me, not just woeful headlines from some underdeveloped country, where these things just happen and will probably always keep happening.

For about a year, my main reaction to hearing about human rights violations was a low-burning, self-righteous outrage. This was evil on a scale I had never met face to face in the United States, I thought. How can people who shoot their neighbors go home to their families? But then, knowing my family's tax money funded U.S. military aid to Guatemala based on a policy of fear, how can I? My anger became more diffuse and personally uncomfortable as well as tiring. Anger was inhibiting my ability to joke with friends over beans and tortillas and kitchen fires as well as my ability to enjoy life in general.

Although anger was powerful motivation for peace work in the short term, it blocked my ability to see the humanity in the people behind the guns as well. When one family of survivors still lives in the same community with the family that attacked them--not an uncommon situation in Guatemala--fear and anger can prevent communities from healing and becoming functional again in the postwar era. In a more global sense, the people who wage these wars in Guatemala City; Mexico City; and Washington, D.C., are my own neighbors. And they fight these wars in my name.

It's difficult to forgive, but to build a functional global community, what option do I have but to find the courage and love to do so? I mean courage in the sense of looking violence in the face and searching out the role my own lifestyle plays in supporting it, and love in the sense of believing I have enough common ground with my enemies so as to make dialogue possible--having the faith in them to believe that they can eventually hear my voice, whatever form it might take. I also seek the courage and love to create the peace I would like to experience in the world within myself.

These are new ideas to me and more easily imported into my life in the comfort of phone conversations with my senator's foreign policy aide than in the raw reality of returning to Guatemala City to find friends sweating under new death threats. Most of them keep working; dealing with fear is part of the job description of Guatemalan activists. I've heard that courage is a muscle that strengthens with use, but I haven't undergone this sort of conditioning. I feel my muscle is weaker than theirs.

During my sophomore year at Swarthmore, I attended a talk given by an Argentinian human rights activist about how she struggled through fear, political repression, and even physical pain and torture to continue to raise her voice and speak out about her beliefs. The woman expressed a respect for her own self-expression that startled me at the time--how could she think her opinions were worth so much personal suffering? I personally don't know how much I would be willing to withstand for the sake of being able to express my voice. Luckily, I don't have to know.

All I need is the courage to read the newspaper in the morning without skipping over the articles about war refugees, famine, homelessness, shootings in schools, or dire predictions of global climate change. All I need is the courage to look closely at the roots of suffering, to believe that I am a person with a voice that counts to speak out against it, and to use that voice in the most effective ways possible.

After breathing the diesel fumes of Guatemala City for two years, Kirsten Schwind is starting a master's program in natural resources management and environmental justice at the University of Michigan. She is already plotting how to return to Guatemala next summer as well and still learning how to pack lightly.

 Do you have a life experience that you would like to write about for the alumni Bulletin? Then please read the In My Life editorial guidelines before submitting your article.

ALUMNI DIGEST / BACK PAGES/ BOOKS BY ALUMNI / COLLECTION / EDITOR'S NOTE / FEATURES / IN MY LIFE/ LETTERS / PROFILES / ARCHIVE / TALK BACK

Bulletin Home Page

All rights reserved. Swarthmore College 2000